THE PENINSULA DE PARAGUANÁ AT LARGE
LOCAL BUS SERVICE
(POR PUESTO)
You can get around the Peninsula, to Coro, and to Punta Fijo very inexpensively
using small, privately owned buses known as por puestos. The name of the final
destination or home base is usually emblazoned above the front windshield.
In Adícora you will see por puestos for Pueblo Nuevo (which often go on to
Punta Fijo), Coro, Santa Ana, and a few others, such as very local routes
including El Hato and El Supí. Master a bit of basic Spanish so as to confirm
with the driver your destination. You can board a por puesto anywhere along
its route. The best place to catch one is across from the Areperia on the
road to Pueblo Nuevo. A trip to the main bus terminal in Coro or Punta Fijo
will set you back about US$1.00.
EL PICO, VILLA
MARINA, AMUAYCITO:
OTHER PLACES TO WINDSURF ON THE PENINSULA
These spots are located just north of Punta Fijo, on the western shore of Paraguana, and are known for flat water and strong, offshore winds, excellent for speed and slalom sailing. Amuaycito launches onto a protected bay and overlooks a massive oil refinery in the distance. The bay is brimming with wildlife, including diving pelicans and incredible jumping barracuda. Amuaycito may be a little too alive, Alex Hansman of Windsurfing Adícora was bitten by some sort of nasty bottom fish in the muck and had to have the wound scraped, disinfected, and sewn up at the clinic the next morning. Consider booties if you do give Amuaycito a go. El Pico and Villa Marina, just to the north of Amuay, are less protected with very clear, cool, waters and a barren, sandy sea bed where problems with urchins and the like do not appear to be an issue. There are no rental facilities here, so you will have to arrange to transport equipment. Be aware that the wind is offshore and of the dangers that can present. You may be able to arrange for an excursion to the area with Alex at Windsurfing Adícora.
WHERE NOT TO WINDSURF ON THE PENINSULA
If you study the geography of the peninsula, you might be tempted to scout its northern tip for unexplored sailing opportunities within sight of Aruba. Don't. Cabo San Román is a great place to visit and offers some seductive peeling surf with strong sideshore winds, but it is also teeming with tiborones - that's sharks to you and me. It is said that this is due to the fact that the sea depth drops off precipitously just off the coast, in the channel between the Peninsula and Aruba. A few years ago, two Canadian windsurfers were attacked and suffered serious injuries.
There has been some confusion in the windsurfing community as to where these attacks actually occurred. They did not occur in Adícora. The town hosts a steady stream of windsurfers throughout the year, both locals and foreign and domestic travelers, and I have never heard of a shark attack there. Just as Aruba, only 15 miles to the north of Cabo San Román, is not particularly susceptible to shark attack, neither is Adícora to the south; it's just one of those vagaries of the sea that one place presents high risk and another does not.
Santa Ana is an imposing mountain east of Punta Fijo that dominates the otherwise flat terrain of the peninsula (see map of peninsula). It is well-visible from Adícora, especially while sailing the South Beach in the late afternoon, with the sun setting beside the mountain. There are two trails up the mountain: a shorter, steeper one and a longer, winding one. There are waterfalls in which you can bathe and various strata of rain forest vegetation that vary with altitude. A decent pair of sneakers are adequate footwear. The climb and descent take three to four hours. Alex at Windsurfing Adícora offers this climb as an interesting side trip. You can also get there via por puesto, and can often find a young local to accompany you.
The next town beyond Buchuaco is El Supi, which boasts the salt ponds (las salinas). These are vast expanses of variously hued beds of moist salt bordered by mangrove forests. Famous for its large colonies of shockingly bright pink flamingos, the area is worth a visit.
Of the two nearby major cities, Coro is the more enjoyable. Here you can visit an art museum, historical buildings, interesting little shops, a university and a colonial district. It also has large, modern, supermarkets where you can find just about anything you desire. It is less than an hour away by por puesto, so if you get up early you can enjoy the morning sight-seeing and make it back for afternoon sailing. The por puesto termin- ates at the bus terminal, which is a little out of the way. Get off on Calle Falcon, which is the second stop light after entering the city (which begins abruptly after driving through Los Medanos, the desolate sand dunes that connect Paraguana to the mainland). Heading right on Calle Falcon (west) will take you towards the colonial district (and past the Banco Mercantil if you need to buy B's). To return, find a por puesto going to the bus terminal (el terminal), or ask to be pointed towards it (walk back down Calle Falcon and take a right; the terminal is less than a mile away, on the north side of the street).
